Polonska T. Technology improvement of obtaining of cosmetic creams of therapeutic and preventive action

The thesis is dedicated to the solution of a specific scientific and practical task of developing scientific bases for the technology of emulsion cosmetic products with the use of the new mineral exfoliant effective in the treatment of skin diseases. A number of clay minerals (saponite, bentonite, clinoptilolite, palegorskite, glauconite) have been studied from the point of view of their use as exfoliants of mineral origin. It has been proved that it is possible in principle to design natural oil compositions with a favorable composition of fatty acids, which corresponds to the composition of the lipid layers of the barrier layer of the skin. The composition of the fatty phase of the emulsion from coconut, sesame, wheat oil in a ratio of 1:1:1 with an adequate ratio of fatty acids to normal healthy skin is substantiated. Investigation of the cascade of spreading confirmed the composition of the composition of three oils, ensuring optimal absorption and spreading of the mixture when applied to the skin. It has been proposed to use a glauconite-starch composition with 0.5% by weight highly disperse glauconite powder as an aqueous phase of emulsions for the aggregative and sedimentation stability of a structured system. There have been developed the improved technology and formulation of cosmetic mineral cream peeling, which according to organoleptic, physicochemical and microbiological parameters corresponds to DSTU 4764: 20070 “Cosmetic scrubs. General technical conditions” and is characterized by high consumer properties. The dynamics of pH change and the morphological picture of the epidermal change in a group of volunteers have been studied and the presence of a therapeutic and prophylactic effect after the application of the developed peeling cream has been proved.