Liu J. Decorative Finishing in Fashion Design: Artistic Means, Innovative Technologies

The dissertation is devoted to the actual problem of the art analysis of decorative finishing in fashion design in the 20th century and at the beginning of the 21st century to determine the artistic means of its formation and innovative technologies of creation. The comprehensive systematic analysis of the evolution of decorative finishing of clothing; the coverage of the works of leading fashion designers of the 20th – early 21st centuries are conducted. The development of finishing of clothing in the works of world-famous designers in the 20th century and at the beginning of the 21st century is studied, and the main tendencies in finishing of women`s and men`s costumes of this period are revealed. The peculiarities of design practices in the works of world-famous designers are classified, the activities of the largest design studios and workshops in Europe that are engaged in finishing of clothing and collaborate with world-famous designers and brands are analyzed, the unique technologies of decorative finishing used by the world-famous Fashion Houses in their creative activity are described, the stages of the creation of hand-decorated clothing are identified. The artistic means in the decorative finishing of the costume of the 20th – 21st centuries are revealed, and the systematization of finishing is developed: by type, by the method of production, by the method of fixing of processing, by way of influence on the material, and by other signs. The systematization of the types of embroidery by the main and additional signs is developed; The systematization of kinds of perforation and application by various signs is provided, the ways of their manufacturing are systematized. The systematization of three-dimensional finishing of clothing is developed; the artistic means and modern techniques of finishing the textile materials and products are considered. The generalized systematization of decorative finishing of clothing is developed, the specificity and possible variants of modern types of finishing and their application in the design of modern clothing collections are revealed and characterized. The influence of national features of the designers from different countries on the choice of decorative finishing of clothing is revealed; the frequency of use of the most widespread types of decorative finishing in the collections of designers from different countries is estimated. The research in the field of modern art criticism on modern and innovative decorative finishing of clothing is developed. The main areas of application of innovations in textiles and design-projecting of clothing are analyzed and systematized, such as nano-, biotechnology, microencapsulation, 3D printing, smart clothing, etc. The influence of innovative technologies and materials on the aesthetic aspect in clothing design, their systematization is developed. The artistic means and technologies of creating the decorative finishing of clothing are determined.