Sharkina A. Make-up in fashion innovations of the XXI century: artistic means and technologies.

Українська версія

Thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

State registration number

0821U102030

Applicant for

Specialization

  • 022 - Культура і мистецтво. Дизайн

29-06-2021

Specialized Academic Board

ДФ 26.807.002

Kiev National University of Arts and Culture

Essay

The dissertation is devoted to the research of modern make-up practices in fashion innovations. The scientific novelty of the research are in the theoretical substantiation and practical application of innovative means and technologies of make-up in the fashion industry. In this work we can find for the first time the following: the creation of a make-up artist in the fashion industry is considered as an independent activity in the field of design; a comprehensive scientific study of modern make-up practices in fashion industry; the possibilities of modern make-up, decorative, post-posture means in realization of innovative ideas of visual transformation of corporeality. The practical significance of the work is to identify and implement the functions of make-up in the diversity of its manifestations in fashion innovations of the XXI century, to reveal the relationship between theater and film make-up with innovative make-up practices in the fashion industry in creating modern images. It is determined that the specifics of make-up in the fashion industry is to follow the traditions and principles of theater and film make-up and the using of the latest tools in the beauty industry. It is determined that in relation to the fashion industry, make-up is a system of artistic means aimed at changing the appearance of a person by transforming the primary data of the face and body and giving them new pictorial forms through pictorial-plastic modeling. In order to compare the historical experience in make-up with the modern trends, the techniques and means of artistic make-up of such masters of Hollywood cinema of the XX century as M. Factor (experiments with screen make-up on the example of work with actors G. Walthall and M. Dietrich), A. Schneider (author's techniques in the work on the screen image of M. Monroe), A. de Rossi (development of make-up for the screen image of E. Taylor) are analyzed. The specifics of theatrical make-up are analyzed on the example of the image of Mavka from the drama – extravaganza «Forest Song» by L. Ukrainka performed by R. Nedashkivska (2012). Innovations in the Ukrainian fashion industry are analyzed on the example of make-up works by Ukrainian make-up artists and designers S. Chaika, O. Romanova, M. Skalska, visagiste and maquillagist S. Rymakova, make-up artists M. Borshchevska and T. Antonenko. Make-up practices in fashion innovations are analyzed on the examples of catwalk images (Galliano Balmain, Margiela, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Vanessa Seward, Elie Saab). Innovative make-up products and developments are described, which have significantly expanded the possibilities of a make-up artist. It is determined that the modern beauty industry adds to the make-up arsenal of the make-up artist a number of materials, means and technologies. Thanks to them it is possible to demonstrate innovative solutions: color effects, multi-colored arrows and mascaras, decoration (application) of parts of the face with sequins, rhinestones, pearls; eyelashes – false, extended, with glued feathers; graphic elements on the face; new technologies for mother-of-pearl production; the use of silicone and the invention of stable and comfortable textures. These tools speed up the process of applying make-up, speed up shading and eliminate the need to tweak make-up during shooting or action. Based on the study of historical experience and practices of image development with the use of innovative technologies, the algorithm of creating a fashionable image is substantiated and proposed in the following stages: 1) search for an idea, determining the conceptual content of the image in accordance with the purpose; 2) search for means of expression, preparation of necessary materials; 3) stylization, execution of the image. The main functions of make-up are realized in the practical part of the research – in the creation of fashion-images with the use of innovative techniques. The project is presented by description and photo fixation: thematic images with the use of artistic and figurative means of make-up; festive images with substantiation of plastic-expressive means of make-up; stage and spectacular images with the use of visual make-up; advertising images that can influence the opinion and choice of the consumer. It is determined that through the process and result of visual transformation of the image of the model by a make-up artist, designer, stylist, photographer, director, it is possible to perceive the formation of a fashion model in a new way. The study of make-up practices in the fashion industry is a topical area in art history, which will provide new approaches to understanding the relationship of all elements of the presentation of a fashion product. Key words: make-up, make-up practices, fashion-industry, fashion-innovations, artistic image, means, technologies, thematic image, festive image, spectacular image.

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