This thesis is devoted to the research of modern author's techniques of textile manufacturing and trimming during the years of Ukrainian independence.
The scientific novelty lies in the general integrated approach to the textile techniques study: the processes of creating and trimming fabrics. An analysis of Ukrainian patent basis is carried out. A systematic analysis of small business in the textile field is made. For the first time, innovations in the field of industrial textile are revealed and classified into groups; the assortment of small enterprises and workshops is highlighted; leading masters’ creativity art; the exhibition projects activity is studied; terminological apparatus of textile; small business activity research is made, particularly, workshops in modern Ukraine; the analysis of Ukrainian authorial textile in the world context.
The practical significance of scientific research is expressed in the study of modern author's techniques in textiles and their general systematization. Author's definition of design by individual order. A terminological dictionary has been formed.
The research source base consists of catalogs of exhibitions, photo archives of masters, the Ukrainian patent base, lists of official registers of private entrepreneurs, as well as works of art and assortments of products of enterprises.
Based on general theoretical works in the grounds and theory of design, V. Danylenko, M. Yolochkin, N. Koveshnikova et al., the general direction of searches in design space is focused, particularly, theoretical boundaries are determined, and conditional accents are set. Grounded on scientific researches of D. Tkach, O. Kryvosheienko, I. Yakovets and other authors.
Attention is paid to the publications of foreign authors, working with textile techniques, as well as textile design theorists and practitioners: S. Das, N. J. Nelson, K. C. Wilson, et al.
Studied in the research context, the main place is occupied by publications of D. Bobiak, O. Lukovska, H. Kusko, et al. In the context of historical development, the following publications, concerning the middle and the end of the XX cent. are considered: A. Zhuk, T. Pecheniuk, K. Tsurkan et al. Modern manufacturers, designers and textile artists often use traditional textile techniques in their creative work. Thesis draws attention to publications of the following authors: O. Novytska, O. Nykorak, O. Moisiuk, et al.
Among the researchers of current textile, such authors can be mentioned: H. Kusko, T. Kara-Vasylieva, Z. Chehusova, et al.
Patent documentation from the 2000s to the present is considered. Certain innovations are divided into several main groups. The main focus is on innovations that are directly related to industrial and manual techniques of weaving threads, as well as its cutting.
Focuses on small enterprises with low circulation and production capacity, in particular those that use the synthesis of machine and manual labor. Among them are Wanda Kylymky, Karat LLC, Ukrainian Ribbon Weaving Factory, B. Khmelnytsky Art Factory, etc.
The activity of creative workshops and their techniques is highlighted. The workshops are mainly engaged in handicrafts. Additionally, the thesis presents the describing of individual workshops activity – O. Pyliuhina, M. Furda, O. Didyk, as well as group ones – Fira, Tekstylni Vizii, Maisternia teplykh podarunkiv.
In-depth research within the framework of exhibition projects in Ukraine: International Biennial Scythia, Mini Textiles, Art Textiles. Integration of the arts.
The study systematized the interaction with the following materials: metal, plastic, wood, grass, etc. Thus, the streams of upcycling, string art, glitch textile, collage, textile sculpture stand out. In terms of using and rethinking traditional methods of painting, the following techniques are defined: shibori, eco-printing, screen printing, contact painting. Rethinking and interpretation of traditional motifs and colors are noted in the techniques of batik, embroidery, etc. According to the results of systematic analysis, the most expressive and common techniques can be considered as application, collage, assembly. Experimental textile techniques have become the most widespread in conceptual art. Thus the creative activity of T. Barabash, V. Buryanyk, A. Schneider is studied.
Problematic issues of textile terminology and systematisation of data in Ukrainian techniques of textile ware and works manufacturing and trimming in the XXI century are substantiated.
Key words:textile technique, custom design, author's technique, experimental textile, upcycling, textile design.
