Navolska L. Form-building in menswear: genesis, evolution, modern tendencies

This thesis is dedicated to the current research on the form-building of menswear within its historical development as an object of art study in the design. Despite the fact that historians, art historians, culturologists, sociologists and other scientists from related areas of knowledge have studied a considerable number of scientific issues connected with form-building aspects, the issues of project practice connected with the design and form-building of menswear have not been studied sufficiently yet. Thus, specificity of compliance of art-design signs of classification and form structuring, constructional design of menswear with the signs of purpose and properties of materials, that generally determines form style within its historical formation, and its semantics, semiotics in the social identification of consumers has been absent until today. The role of men’s clothing, a costume in particular, in the formation of men’s image remains insufficiently studied and underestimated. That is why, style and form of menswear as a transmitter of the image of a modern man by means of design are relevant. The scientific novelty lies in revealing and systematization of the historical development of menswear form-building for balanced design of up-to-date collections. To do this in the thesis for the first time: methodological principles of menswear form-building as a design object have been detected to define development peculiarities of cultural traditions in clothing and development trends of modern men’s collections; feasibility of harmonization has been substantiated and the structure of form-building has been studied through defining proportions of form elements that ensure a quality effect; changes in general form have been studied and classification of evolutional transformation of external form outlines in menswear has been conducted by means of style form-building methods; development of the balanced form-building and constructional design of items has been presented by artistic means of graphic visualization to predict trends of current men’s clothing collections. An in-depth analysis has been conducted and a historical genesis and evolution of menswear form-building have been investigated within the image solution of modern men’s clothing: its style features have been revealed, the aesthetics of form and typology of a historical men’s costume. Basic components in systematization of style development and graphic visualization of form-building in the design of men’s costume of the XX century have been defined; specificity of art-compositional peculiarities of the volumetric-space structure and its elements, which are directly connected with the form tectonics in the traditional functional menswear design of the XIX-XX centuries, has been revealed. The practical significance of the study consists in creating a scientific base on the development of form and corresponding typical constructions of men’s clothing based on bionics, anthropometry, ergonomics data. Scientific provisions and materials highlighted in the thesis can be used in scientific research on history and theory of arts and design, are used in the course and diploma project of bachelors and masters for students of specialty 022 «Design» and 182 «Modeling, construction and artistic decoration of clothing». The practical significance of the study is confirmed by implementation of the study results into the real industrial manufacturing and educational processes in Chernivtsi Professional College of Technologies and Design and KNUTD (Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design). The work consists of an introduction, four sections with conclusions, general conclusions, a bibliography, appendixes.