Kapitonenko O. Totalitarian and Post-Totalitarian Fashion in European Culture: Philosopho-Anthropological Analysis

The dissertation is a philosophical study of fashion innovation issues within context of sociocultural potential of totalitarian and post-totalitarian culture. The paper provides analysis of anthropological, sociological, and cultural fashion patterns as culture practice. It identifies formation principles of fashion in the realms of Soviet and Post-Soviet culture and technologies of fashion industry. The dissertation paper traces the evolution of fashion in the realms of project process (laboratory experiment of "production clothing" group), functioning of couture houses, etc.), and it is characterized by the influence of avant-garde (Avant-1), post-avant garde (Avant-2), totalitarian and post-totalitarian periods in fashion in the former Soviet Union and Eastern Europe. Identifies aspects of Ukrainian design school focused on design and rhetorical model of clothes design. In particular, the experience of imitation of the system analysis of the "vestimentar code" of Roland Barthes's fashion research as a model principle that unites the objective, visual and verbal realities of fashion is determined. The dissertation characterizes ethical, aesthetic, ideological, mythological determinants of modern cultural fashion practices in the context of leading Ukrainian design schools.