In the dissertation the problem of transformation of the female flesh image in the fashion of the twentieth century is researched.
Basing on the analysis of scientific works the author identifies the main factors influencing the formation and transformation of the female flesh image in the context of fashionable innovations of the twentieth century (economic development, information technologies, the Internet and mass media, philosophical trends, culture and art, including fashion).
Fashion associated with the style of products, certain design solutions, is considered as a unique artistic and cultural phenomenon that combines artistic creativity, material production and design practice.
In the course of the scientific research of the flesh image, the author, considers fashionable image along with the formation of the human body, physicality. The essence of the concepts of “fashionable image” and “flesh image” as reminiscences of fashionable innovations in the twentieth century has been clarified. The phrase "fashionable image" is understood as the presentation of a person in the cultural space, taking into account the essence of fashion and fashionable innovation. “Flesh Image” is a concept (English “flesh” – “flesh”, “body” and “image” – “image”), in which “image” is defined as “the specific integrity of those qualities and capabilities that the human body acquires in accordance with one or another cultural practice. And “body” in this case is the embodiment of cultural flesh, the essence of which is mutual insight, conditionality, certainty and materiality of the human body and the body of culture.
With the help of a visual series, the peculiarity of fashionable images in each historical period is shown, a holistic view of their modification is formed. Materials from a series of expositions, fashion and costume museums demonstrate not only achievements, but also experiments on the creation of new models of fashionable image. The analysis of the image of a woman from feature films made it possible to reveal new role models of female beauty and fashionable flesh image, becoming examples to follow.
The author analyzed the flesh image in the artistic practices of fashion. The features of the artistic and imaginative presentation of the female flesh image in the fashion of the first half of the twentieth century are revealed. A rather sensitive fashion reaction to all innovations in the fields of science and technology, culture and art was noted. Significant changes have been noticed in the means of figurative expressiveness (silhouette, lines). The relationship between the human body and the clothes began to be expressed in dynamics (the same clothes, the same shape, then compresses the body, then touches it a little, then hangs completely on it). Since the 70s of the twentieth century, the flesh image has been characterized by anarchism, uncertainty, deconstruction, fragmentation, as a result of which fashionable images have lost their meaningful content.
The dynamics of flesh image transformation in the context of youth subcultures of the second half of the twentieth century is considered. It is noted that the fashion quickly responds to the needs and preferences of young people, and sometimes anticipates them, creating new elements of appearance.
The design of hairstyles and makeup is characterized as components of the flesh image of a modern person. The features of the hairstyle design are revealed, the making of which was influenced by historical epochs, artistic styles, trends and trends, youth subcultures. In addition, it is noted that these processes have been enriched with the latest tools and technologies of color and decoration. Hair, makeup and other components of the fashionable image allowed us to identify their carriers as individuals, revealing aesthetics in everyday life, which today is positioned as an aesthetic or cultural phenomenon.
The processes of formation of the flesh image of women in the Soviet and modern Ukraine was investigated. The formation of the female flesh image was influenced by the activities of the republican methodological centers of artistic costume modeling, fashion houses, fashion designers and masters of hairdressing. The second half of the twentieth century is characterized by the appearance of the romantic image of a Ukrainian woman, in particular in the space of show business, pop, stylized flesh image and its transformation into art business. The main task remains to preserve the national flavor in a holistic way, but at the same time, clothing becomes simple and functional, that is, adapted to active lifestyle.
