Hakhova A. Eco fashion design: genesis of the historical aspects, concepts, novations

Українська версія

Thesis for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

State registration number


Applicant for


  • 022 - Культура і мистецтво. Дизайн


Specialized Academic Board

ДФ 64.109.003

Kharkiv Academy of Design and Arts


The dissertation is devoted to the research of the place and role of clothing design in the system of general ecological measures. The issues of influence of socio-cultural factors on the development of eco fashion design, conceptual approaches and methods of creating ecological fashion are revealed. The tendencies of further development of the ecological direction in fashion design are outlined. There has been an active implementation of the concepts of sustainable development in recent years. This trend of environmental friendliness among all sectors of industry, was adopted by fashion industry in the form of eco fashion. The appeal to the design of ecological fashion and the implementation of its concepts is becoming more and more important in solving environmental problems. In the process of finding new methods of creating ecological clothing, interdisciplinary innovations are actively borrowed, which leads to a radical rethinking of fashion design and a new integration in the form of eco-innovative fabrics and methods of eco fashion designing. A significant number of eco fashion designers are forming a continuous movement of changes in the traditional paradigm of the fashion industry, looking for the concept of creating durable clothing and introducing slow fashion. The analysis of the historical development of ecological clothing design and modern fashion design practices in the study was carried out through the understanding of approaches to the manufacture of eco fashion and the search for effective eco-concepts. Coverage of the time period (late 19th - early 21th century) provided an opportunity to comprehensively analyze the evolution of the design of ecological clothing, socio-cultural factors of its formation, design features and requirements for eco fashion. The work of Ukrainian and foreign scientists is studied in the work, in which the issues of formation and development of eco fashion design are covered, namely: M. Artemenko, T. Arkhipova, K. Afonina, H. Bakalinska, D. Burnham, O. Beylakh, M. Blyzniuk, M. Bishop, S. Brown, E. Gwilt, L. Grose, J. Gordon, K. Dombek-Keith, I. Іеremenko, Z. Tkanko, O. Zhurba, J. Zakolyabina, R. Carson, S. Kryvuts, T. Krotova, A. Kowalska, S. Scaturro, H. McQuillan, K. Niinimäki, B. Rudofsky, T. Rissanen, K. Tadrus, N. Chuprina, N. Chursina, P. Fruth, K. Fletcher, A. Fuad-Luke, and others. The study of the historiography of the work gives grounds to assert that at present in modern art history there is a lack of generalized works on the analysis of the ecological direction in fashion design. All this determines the urgency of the work. The object of the research is the eco fashion design as a paradigm of project culture, and the subject features of the formation, functions, conceptual principles and innovations of eco fashion design. In the dissertation for the first time: the complex systematic analysis of development of eco fashion design in the Ukrainian and world contexts is carried out; the regularities of formation and the main stages of development of eco fashion design are revealed; classification of eco fashion design concepts is carried out; modern methods and means of designing eco fashion are considered; tendencies of further development of innovative technologies in design of fashion ecological direction are revealed; the state of implementation of eco-innovations by Ukrainian designers is outlined. Further developed: research of features influences of ecological problems on development of innovative means of ecological fashion design; identification of factors influencing the development of ecological design; analysis of the using materials by eco fashion designers. The work consists of an introduction, four sections, conclusions, references and appendices (tables, diagrams and illustrations)


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