Hrushetska V. The traditional costume of the Turkic and Turkic-speaking population of the Crimea in the late XVIIIth - early XXth centuries.

The thesis is dedicated to the one of the most little-studied problems in Ukrainian ethnological science - the complex comparative and typological analysis of the traditional costume of the Crimean Tatars, Crimean Gypsies-Gurbeti, Crimean Karaites, Krymchaks in the late XVIIIth and the early XXth centuries, that has performed the major role in the traditional culture, worldview and the representation of personal and ethnic identity in society.The different groups of the historical sources (museum items, visual materials, foremost lithographs, paintings, old photographs, postcards, written documentary and personal origin sources, etc.), the specialized literature and the general scientific and special methods (the systematic, analytical, comparative and historical, typological and others) ensure the achievement of the goal and tasks.The long period of residence, natural and climatic conditions on the Crimea, linguistic affinity, economic activities (agriculture, craft production components and trade) of the Turkic and Turkic-speaking population of the Crimean peninsula and various cross-cultural ties between them and other nations have resulted in the development of the joint traditional forms of the elements. The basic (clothing, footwear) and additional (hats, belts, jewelry) components are selected in the regional complex of the traditional costume. The groups, subgroups, types, subtypes and variations of indicated components are identified. Their main features, such as the visual imagery, morphology, technological methods of manufacturing, decoration (embroidery, weaving, applique, ornamental compositions, color scale, etc.) and functionality (utilitarian, seasonality, the everyday and celebratory things, age and gender, social and protective functions) are revealed in the dissertation.The special attention is paid to the semiotic analysis of the leather footwear of lower forms, the fabric and lamb pelt caps, the typesetting belts, the female jewelry, ornament, color scale and other features of the traditional costume. The chronological stages of the application of complexes garments in the researched period, the distinctive characteristics and the ethnic local elements in the suit are examined.