Shnurenko T.V. Ukrainian national shirt in tradition and today: regional specifics and ceremonial context ( XIX - early XXI century ). - Qualifying scientific work on the rights of the manuscript.
The dissertation on the scientific degree of the candidate of art history on a specialty 26.00.01. "Theory and history of culture". - Kyiv National University of Culture and Arts, Ministry of Education and Science of Ukraine, Kyiv, 2021.
The dissertation explores the problem of the existence of the Ukrainian national shirt in the context of its regional diversity and the character of use of the body clothing in traditional ceremonies. It was found that during the historical and socio- cultural development of the Ukrainian lands, the original methods and ways of a shirt designing were formed and improved. The main types of clothing were: tunic-shaped (the oldest), with shoulder inserts (ustavkova) or with solid-cut sleeves, on the yoke. Shirts were also divided into dodilna ( solid-cut or made of a single piece of cloth) and stankova ( had two parts: the upper - the main part (stanok) , and the lower part ( pidtychka). In each separate macroregion of Ukraine (Carpathians, Polissya, Forest- steppe, Steppe) the additional variety in the cut of body clothing was observed. It was proved that the nature of ornamental motives on the shirts in Ukraine were formed under the influence of socio-economic, gender and age factors. The embroidery was located due to the overall composition of the product and its cut (collar, cuffs, shirtfronts, sleeves, shoulder inserts).
The social, symbolic and aesthetic functions of the shirt found the reflection in the calendar and family ceremonies of Ukrainians, in particular in the customs related to the birth of a child, marriage, burial culture.
It was determined that with the beginning of the new millennium, the traditional Ukrainian shirt moved from the sphere of national heritage to modern everyday culture and quite quickly became a kind of a marker of the Ukrainian nation in the world.
Key words: Ukrainian national shirt, decoration, coloring and symbolism of embroidery, Slavic traditions.
