Yurchyshyn Y. Traditions of folk costume in modern clothing design (historical and cultural preconditions and artistic interpretations).

The dissertation is devoted to the definition of historical and cultural preconditions, artistic features and regularities of interpreting folk costume traditions as well as to the substantiation of methods of their introduction in modern Ukrainian clothing design. The subject of the research is the historical and cultural preconditions and artistic interpretations of the traditions of folk costume in modern clothing design. The object of the research is folk traditions in modern clothing design. After conducting a scientific analysis of the historiographical and source base, an insufficient degree of study of the topic has been established and traditional costume has been characterized as an artistic phenomenon. The study of the scientific base of the research has allowed us to objectively reflect an overall picture of the interpretation of folk costume traditions in modern clothing design. The research vocabulary has been clarified and the concept of «ethno-design» has been expanded. The historical and cultural preconditions, artistic features and regularities of the interpretation of folk costume have been studied; the methods for analysing traditions have been improved. We have carried out an analysis of folk costume in the light of works of photo art, film art and fine art; we have also rethought its creative interpretation in the context of reproduction of historical events, social phenomena, personal characteristics of artists and characters. The reflection and interpretation of traditional folk costume in the Ukrainian visual arts of the XIX-XX centuries have been considered. It has been found that a large number of artists sought to avoid simply quoting folk costumes in their works; instead, they used a principle of creative interpretation of the source, guided by the expediency, which was dictated by the plot and their own creative method. The leading role in this process was manifested by their emotional perception and philosophical vision. We have collected appropriate ethnographic material of the Ukrainian national costume, which serves as a basis of creative collections of fashion designers, where ethnic wear in its decorative manifestation is taken as a source of creativity. The role of the author's concepts of Ukrainian clothes designers as a style-forming factor has been determined. The involvement of a wide range of designers from different regions and professional groups helped to define conceptual approaches to the interpretation of traditions. A detailed analysis of creative activities of five fashion designers (a total of 100 of their creative works were analysed) has been carried out in order to interpret folk costumes. It has been concluded that the search of designers is focused on different attitudes and interpretations, as well as on a combination of textures, colours and cut. For instance, prominent designers feel more confident and free when interpreting these components. At the same time, beginners tend to follow traditions more, but they have their own unique creative interpretation. The requirements for the interpretation of folk costume traditions in the process of designing modern clothing have been systematised: ensuring functional purposefulness; ensuring consumer properties; manufacturability; integrity; sense of moderation and tact; compromise and compliance with conditions; essential interpretation of traditions in modern clothing; subordination of all laws and means to ideological content. It has been shown that these requirements form the framework conditions and tasks for the performance of a work of art and determine the priorities and features of the work of art.