Uvarova N. Integrated training of skilled climbers in modern conditions of combination of narrow specialization and universalization of athletes

The high urgency of the work is connected, first of all, with the introduction of climbing in the " Climbing combined" format in the program of the XXXII Summer Olympic Games. This creates a serious problem in preparing athletes to participate in the Olympic discipline "Sport сlimbing". Athletes - representatives of certain disciplines, must master the different nature of motor activity and the mechanism of energy supply competitive disciplines.From the point of view of physical training, different types of climbing have different requirements for the development of strength, speed, endurance. This complicates the training process and requires an in-depth analysis of the athlete's ability to build the training process so that the universalization of the athlete does not harm his narrow specialization. In addition, at the present stage of great importance is the development of training programs of integrated orientation for the preparation of climbers for performances in the discipline "Sport climbing". These programs should develop the universalization of athletes without compromising their narrow specialization, ie their effectiveness in their main climbing specializations. The scientific novelty is that for the first time: the principle of selection of athletes to participate in the Olympic discipline "Climbing combined"; it is shown that the results in the disciplines "Bouldering" and "Lead" have a significant influence on the rating in “Combined” climbing; developed and substantiated a program for training qualified climbers, which allows you to combine improvements in non-athlete-specific types of climbing without losing the level of sportsmanship in the leading, for the athlete, the discipline of climbing; shows the basic principles of building training programs for athletes specializing in the discipline "Speed" to improve sportsmanship in the disciplines "Lead" and "Bouldering" without losing the level of sportsmanship in the discipline "Speed"; shows the basic principles of building training programs for athletes specializing in the discipline "Lead" and "Bouldering" to improve sportsmanship in the discipline "Speed" without losing the level of sportsmanship in the disciplines "Lead" and "Bouldering".