Fedynchuk O. Breast and neck accessories in the Northern Bukovyna: history, typology, ethnic features.

Українська версія

Thesis for the degree of Candidate of Sciences (CSc)

State registration number

0419U004479

Applicant for

Specialization

  • 17.00.06 - Декоративне і прикладне мистецтво

07-10-2019

Specialized Academic Board

К 20.051.08

SHEE "Precarpathian National University named after Vasyl Stefanyk"

Essay

This dissertation is the first paper focusing on the holistic analysis of literary sources and determining the current state of the research topic. The source base is outlined and the terminology of the folk special vocabulary has been clarified. The essence of the concepts «breastplates», «shawls», crescent, rectangular and triangular shaped «salba» on a felt basis. The definition of terms «amulets», «beaded jewelry», «pendant», «clasps», «ties», «necklaces», «cross jewelry» has been extended. In the course of the experiment, the following basic methods of work are defined: research method, experimental method, aggregate method and notification method. Two groups of methods have been selected: universal and procedural. Each chapter is based on a different research method, particularly, the historical method is used in the second chapter to focus on the study of the origins and features of jewelry in Northern Bukovyna, the third chapter is based on the inductive deductive, hypothetically inductive and hypothetically deductive methods, the monographic method was used to make conclusions.The main trends in the development of the decorations in the historical context are investigated, the most ancient monuments of the region from ancient to independent Ukraine. Three stages of the folk tradition development of decorations are established. The first ornaments discovered by the archaeologists came to us from the state of the Antes (IV–VII centuries, settlement Kodin) and the Chernyakhov period (II–V centuries AD) from ancient to the formation of Kyivan Rus and the Transitional Age (IX century BC – XIV century). It has been found that the most ancient accessories in Northern Bukovyna were clasps, necklaces, amulets, pendants, crosses. It is established that in the days of the Moldavian principality (late XIV–XVIII centuries) and the Habsburg monarchy (late XVIII – early XX centuries) the gold oreficeria (orefice), the art of processing pearls («mărgăritarelor», «perlelor») and some accessories from the previous period, such as necklaces and clasps, were preserved, and crosses continued their development, but the neck pendant, as a decoration, stopped its development in the complex of decorations. We have traced that the accessories from the previous period, such as necklaces, clasps, crosses left their mark in the decorations during the Habsburg monarchy, and a number of new typological subgroups have been identified – amulets, breastplates and ties. The decorations of the Northern Bukovyna dress of XX century (the period of the Romanian occupation of Northern Bukovina, «Sovietization» and sub-Soviet Ukraine, independent Ukraine) have been preserved from the previous period, these include the following typological subgroups of accessories: beaded jewelry, necklaces, ties. It was found out that from the ancient to the independent Ukraine significant changes in the jewelry have taken place, in typology, technology, artistic and stylistic method.

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